The part numbers are NAPA. The ign. switch is key type with acc. to separate the alternator wire from the dist wire. You need to separate the white alternator wire from the batt. side of the switch so the distributor doesn't get feed back and keep the engine running when the switch is off. You also need to unhook the resister on the light switch or use a toggle switch. The white and red wires read the load for the internal regulator and are supposed to let the regulator know how much to charge. The red wire to the amp gauge is the charging wire. If you run a mag, it takes a different switch that grounds the mag to stop the engine.
( KS6116 is for distributor and used with original pull or push start )
( KS6180 is for distributor and used with a solenoid for key start - Starter terminal must be changed to bolt type )
( 7-01852 is for magneto and used with a solenoid for key start - Starter terminal must be changed to bolt type )
( 7-01853 is for magneto and used with original pull or push start ).

TIP= Be sure to use the old generator pulley on the alternator so you can use the wide fan belt.

TIP= Be sure to change all light bulbs.

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B, C, WD, WD45 with distributor (12 Volt Conversion)
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Coil = NAPA = ECHLIN # IC64SB (12 volt with an internal resistor)
Points = NAPA = ECHLIN # CS763A
Condenser = NAPA = ECHLIN # RR174
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Echlin # SF139 is the bolt contact for converting a starter to solenoid start.(replaces the button contact used for the push or pull manual start)
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Filter = NAPA # 7011
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                                 TIP

If you tie up the rear lift arms, the cylinders stay full of oil. If you then fill up the hydraulic reservoir, be very careful if you lower the arms later. There is a vent for the hydraulic reservoir under the inspection plate under the starter (one of the little traps that AC engineering created.) (usually a brass elbow installed in a threaded hole) This vent will squirt any over filled oil directly onto the foot clutch!!! On my tractors, I have plugged this vent with a pipe plug. Then I drilled a hole and welded a pipe coupler in the inspection plate under the starter, at an angle, to miss the starter and installed a cylinder vent. The result is a dry clutch as oil fumes and any overfill are vented to the outside.

Duey

                               TIP

Inside the pump there is a rack of sleeves and valves. There is also a spring washer, that after many moons of use, will disintegrate. Small pieces of this spring washer will lock up the sleeves and valves . You may not even find the pieces but you might have to carefully drive the stuck sleeves out of the valve body. When you reassemble this rack of valves, they should move freely in the bore and the valves should move freely inside the sleeves. You may have to use some very fine emery cloth in the bore and on the valves and sleeves to remove debris.

                               TIP

When removing the hydraulic pump. = When the pump is free from the housing, tip it out enough to depress the cam followers and on the pivot end insert a slightly bent nail under the pivot pin and wedge the follower in the depressed position. Then rotate the pump upside down and it will just about fall out. Duey